Many divers believe that the best diving in the world is around this tiny lava arch near Darwin Island, pretty much in the middle of nowhere. The main islands of The Galapagos are about 600 miles west of Ecuador. Wolf and Darwin islands are more than 100 miles north of them.

This isolation, converging ocean currents and nutrients collaborate to create some amazing high-action diving. We saw dozens of large Galapagos, Silky and Hammerhead sharks here.

But it is not easy diving. The surf and surge can be brutal, currents strong and relentless and visibility muddy. But we made three to four dives each of the two days we moored here.

Ultimately, we were exhausted but extremely gratified for the effort.