Although we suffered long crowded boat trips to Gladden Spit and hell-like temperatures in Placencia, we were never rewarded with whale sharks.

And, although these largest-fish-in-the-oceans were the reason we chose Belize, we did get some nice surprises during two days of Gladden Spit diving.

While waiting -- and hoping -- in circular group in about 80 feet of water, this squadron of pygmy manta rays cruised by. They remained well away but, thanks to relatively clear water, sharp Nikonos glass and excellent Fujichrome RDP film, I managed one ghostly image.